Out of Africa
From meandering in mokoros and getting comfortable behind mahouts in the Okavango Delta, to silently watching gorillas browse deep in lush jungles, Africa offers excitement and a brings to thinking tourists a realisation of how important it is to preserve our natural resources.
Some people have a thing about elephants, some have an obsession about lions. If your penchant leans towards gorillas, there’s a new tailor made safari to see them in their natural habitat – and you don’t have to go down a bumpy road to get there.
Volcanoes Safaris http://www.volcanoessafaris.com/tailored-flying.html has just launched its new tailor-made flying safaris give the discerning client the option to fly by private charter light aircraft directly to the key attractions in the “Gorillas in the Mist” territory of the Great Western Rift Valley through Uganda, Democratic Republic of Congo, Rwanda and Tanzania. The short flights cut out many hours of arduous road travel that are sometimes involved in visiting the gorillas and chimpanzees in their remote habitat. There is a 3-day flying safari from Entebbe to the gorilla parks of the Parc National Des Volcans in Rwanda, Bwindi in Uganda, and Mgahinga in Uganda, and a 7-day safari to see gorillas in Bwindi, chimps in Kibale and game in Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda.
From Kigali, Rwanda, Volcanoes are now offering exclusive transfers by helicopter to the Parc National des Volcans. These scheduled safaris can be run on a private basis for any number of clients and modified as required. The company's tailor-made safaris are also an option, created specifically to suit clients who can decide where, when and what they want to do and Volcanoes plan a safari to suit. Flying safaris to the neighbouring parks in Tanzania, in particular to Serengeti, Ngorongoro and Mahale are also options.
Accommodation designed to blend with the cultural heritage of the area has been built by the company and is situated near all three mountain gorilla parks – Mount Gahinga Lodge at Mgahinga, Bwindi Lodge in Uganda; and Virunga Lodge in Rwanda. The latter in the Parc National des Volcans is the latest addition to their eco-lodges, and has spectacular views of the Virunga mountains. Their Sipi Falls Lodge near Mount Elgon in Eastern Uganda, overlooks Uganda’s most beautiful waterfall.
Volcanoes Safaris e-mail: salesug@volcanoessafaris.com has been operating in Uganda since 1997 and in Rwanda since 2000. They have a fleet of vehicles and experienced guides who escort clients on safari. Groups that have used Vocanoes recently include those of President Clinton, the President and Board of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund, the Walt Disney Group, Paramount Pictures, the Macarthur Foundation, Rachel Hunter and Born Free Colombus Zoo.
Volcanoes is headquartered in Kampala, Uganda and have sales offices in Rwanda, London in the UK and Atlanta (USA). In addition to gorilla, chimpanzee, wildlife and birding safaris they organise mountain trekking to the Rwenzoris, the Virungas and Mount Elgon.
Another String to your Bow
Hunting safaris in Africa are still carried out in a controlled fashion, attracting a certain calibre of clientele. A full list of tours and options are available from websites such as www.safariconsultants.com, which offers safaris in Tanzania, Namibia, South Africa, Zimbabwe and Zambia. HHK Safaris www.hhksafaris.com in Zimbabwe is one of the biggest safari operators with control over some of Zimbabwe's best hunting and fishing concessions. Their wildlife concessions and diverse hunting quotas enable them to tailor make safaris to client specifications.
A new type of hunting for visitors, but one which local people have done for centuries for pure survival, are bow-hunting safaris. These are available in Zimbabwe from Scott Guthrie of Zindele Safaris and Tsoma Safaris in the north-western province of South Africa. A rather bizarre but animal-friendly type of hunting is also arranged by this company – eco-hunting the rare White Rhino. This is the animal that has been facing extinction until recent efforts of game parks and conservationists have increased its numbers. A five-day hunt with tracker Bushmen allows the client to dart a White Rhino, which is then photographed and released. It is possible for taxidermists to make a trophy of the horn – “a truly unique souvenir!” says the company at www.tsoma.co.za
Safari by Elephant
An animal-friendly safari in my book means, “take only photographs, leave only footprints” as many a sign in Africa’s game camps states. For a combination of real luxury and game viewing animals that will live another day (Inshallah!), you cannot beat a photographic safari from the top of an elephant. At Abu Camp in the Okavango Delta, Botswana, http://www.abucamp.com you get closer than ever to the game as the elephants silently swish through the grass, the other beasts such as giraffe, zebra, elephant, impala, tssessebe, lechwe, wildebeest, buffalo, warthog, plus the camp's resident pride of lion, remain unaware of your presence on these expansive backs. Seated in large padded saddles mounted behind experienced mahouts, the bird’s eye view allows you to join a herd of the largest land mammals and see Africa from a completely different perspective.
Game drives in open 4x4 vehicles, night drives, guided nature walks, bird watching (500 species) and drifting in mokoros (flat boats used on the shallow swamps by the local people) on the tranquil Okavango Delta waters complete the perfection. Wrapping this picture together in a neat parcel are the camp’s knowledgeable guides, who can tell you fascinating stories about the habits of all including the wee beasties – the insects, the spiders, the parasites – that all thrive together in this fragile, unique ecosystem. This delta is one of the world's largest inland river systems formed by the Okavango River which flows into and fans out across the Kalahari Desert to form an immense inland delta of lagoons, channels and palm filled islands.
Abu Camp is set deep in an ancient riverine forest, and consists of six custom-built, stylishly furnished “tents” with en-suite bathrooms. Each tent has its own tree-shaded deck overlooking the lagoon. The main deck is sculpted around giant trees, and from here sundowners and five-star meals complete with fine wines are served.
The camp offers a three-night safari for a maximum of twelve people, although its new addition - the Abu Private Villa – is a good option for four people wanting complete privacy. The villa is five minutes from Abu Camp, and here guests have their own butler, chef and guide with exclusive use of a vehicle and their own private pool.
Daily flights go to Maun in the Okavango Delta from Johannesburg, Windhoek and Gaborone, and three times a week from Cape Town. You can also get there from Victoria Falls, or by private charter. Email: ebs@info.bw
Safari Par Excellence in Victoria Falls, adventure specialists and lodge owners on the Zambezi River, also offer elephant back safaris in Zimbabwe and Zambia. Walking along the Zambezi River from an elephant you don’t feel too vulnerable to be near its abundant hippopotamus and crocodile. Trips are available in the morning and afternoon. Contact http://www.safpar.com or the Zambezi Safari & Travel Company Ltd www.zambezi.com
Walk on Zambia’s Wild Side
If riding on an elephant is not your idea of fun, perhaps a walking safari through Zambia’s Luangwa Valley is. This huge national park in northern Zambia is known for its remoteness, natural beauty and particularly good wildlife viewing. Robin Pope’s Nsefu Walking Safari is what they in the business call a ‘backed-up safari”, which is one of the most comfortable, highly personalised (maximum of six guests in each safari) walking safaris on offer.
The professional guides leading the safaris are recognised as being among the best in Africa. The back-up on this seven (or more) day safari is provided by a support team who, while you are tracing a specific walking route through a wilderness area to rendezvous points en route, will set up and organise everything you need. You stay in accommodation ranging from semi-permanent tents to luxury lodges.
Robin Pope is one of Zambia’s best regarded safari operators and has been leading safaris in the South Luangwa National Park since the 1970s. Along with his wife Jo he runs three small private camps, Nkwali, Nsefu and Tena Tena.
The Nsefu safari starts in Nkwali Camp, which is on private land belonging to the Pope family and overlooks the river and Luangwa National Park. This beautiful area of ebony woodland and open grass plains is superb game viewing country. Elephants often cross the river in front of the large thatched bar and lounge area on the main terrace. The en-suite chalets are made of thatch and woven bamboo, are cool and spacious, each with an excellent view onto the meandering Luangwa River.
Two nights are spent here, followed by the three-day walking trail. The walk leads through the saltpan area of the Nsefu Sector, one of the best riverine areas in the Luangwa. The river changes rapidly here, the resulting channels, ox-bow lakes and lagoons host spectacular game. Accommodation en route is in two bush camps consisting of comfortable and rustic en-suite grass huts. Porters carry your luggage between the camps. The safari ends with two nights at Nsefu Camp situated on a sweeping bend of the spectacular river, where there is an option of game drives or more walks.
The Nsefu Walking Safari operates from June to October. Book through The Zambezi Safari & Travel Company Ltd, a small specialist safari consultancy based in the heart of Zimbabwe’s Zambezi Valley at www.zambezi.com This area offers safaris mostly during the dry-season, although there is now a new rainy season safari – seeing the valley from a very different and very green perspective.
The Luangwa Valley is the southern extension of the Great Rift Valley that stretches from North Africa down to the Zambezi River, and the Luangwa River is one of the Zambezi's greatest tributaries. The valley itself has a turbulent history of game destruction by poachers following Zambia’s independence, but largely due to the government’s intervention and the conservation work of organisations including Save the Rhino Trust, the Luangwa Independent Rural Development Project plus safari operators themselves have returned the wildlife to its former glory. The valley consists of four designated conservation areas including the South and North Luangwa National Parks, the Luambe and Lukusuzi National Parks.
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