A Last Look at…..A Middle Eastern Jewel

Jordan’s ancient rosepink city of Petra carved out of the surrounding rocks is unique not only for its spectacular scenery and magnificent historical structures. Its warm and welcoming inhabitants play a major role in its success as a tourist destination.

Taxi?” asked the Bedouin Ameer as he skilfully steered his donkey Jack over the crumbling sandstone pebbles towards us. “Air conditioned!” he added, white teeth flashing in a brown face. By the time you have walked through and explored Petra
right through to the end of the main route and climbed the 900 steps cut into the rocks leading to the Monastery and back down again, you are grateful for the use of a donkey’s back.

Petra is a very special place. The city’s imposing facades featuring large columns, tombs, carved figures and square blocks cut into the rocks in the 6th Century BC by the Nabataean Arab people takes away the breath of even hardened travellers. Set on the edge of Wadi Araba, the 264 square kilometre designated “archaeological park” of rugged sandstone cliffs changes moods depending on the time of day.

The rocks range in colour from red to orange to pink to golden hues with slashes of white, grey and black in dispersed periodically. This is the Middle East’s most spectacular visitor attraction and Jordan’s prime tourism revenue earner.

Supporting it are the people that live, work and play in the ancient city and the town of Wadi Musa on its outskirts. Some 35,000 residents of Wadi Musa have a fierce pride in Petra in particular and Jordan in general. “Welcome to Jordan” is the most common greeting. It hasn’t yet been spoiled by the indifference of mass tourism where mediocre cuisine and bad service are expected, because if you don’t like it, there will be hundreds of others who will fill your place. The crazy mix of people all have a story to tell and if you take the time to listen and not be irritated by the constant touting for business you will discover the real Jordan.

There are the carefree alarmingly handsome Bedouin horsemen that carry weary tourists into and out of the ancient city. There are the donkey “taxi” owners who have their designated turf to operate in and go no further. The horse and cart operators speed through the As-Siq, a 1.2 kilometre long narrow gorge that links Petra to the outside world. There are the curio sellers within the old city – many born in the surrounding caves where their fathers before them were born too. The new village especially made for them doesn’t always suit and some choose to live in the caves still.

The tour guide that spoke about Petra’s magic during a candlelit night tour of the city had such eloquent English he must have been schooled in Oxford. His demands for total silence from the 300 visitors while walking in the As-Siq gorge were met, for the most part, making an enchanting evening. Other tour guides based in Wadi Musa such as Aiman who organises trips further afield to Wadi Rum and Aquaba – even offers tailor-made bicycle tours.

Mohammad Asri – so knowledgeable about the desert he can drive through it at night without headlights – is deeply passionate about Wadi Rum’s weather-etched rock formations and sweeping landscapes of red sand turning into yellow turning into black. The carefree horsemen too, like Abraham, are happiest when leading seven-day horseback safaris into this desert, delighting all who take part with their desert knowledge sprinkled with mischievous humour.

The hotel managers from the humble Petra Inn to the 5-star Taybet Zaman aim to please and make every guest feel welcome. Ibrahim at Sandstone Restaurant can arrange “whatever you like, you can have”. His excellent food including a speciality dish of “camel lamb” is served with style and a smile.

“As you like” and “..it’s up to you” are also favourite sayings, because basically it’s your decision what you want to do – the rest can be arranged. Without its supporting cast, Petra would still be magnificent – but lifeless.

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